^.^BERTY MANUAL^ 

of Chicken f-^* 







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THE,<JBERTY 7>UBLISHING COMPANY 

ROCHESTER , NEW YORK 



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tU 20 1919 
©CI.A511958 



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'Dedicated 



TO THE BETTERMENT OF 
POULTRY-RAISING AS A 
PROFITABLE UNDERTAKING 




roword 



-JM?\ ''Vouitryman^ 
'' Il's lip to Tou!'' 

IT'S up to you to take the 
Liberty Manual of Chickens 
and make it earn. 

It's up to you to earnestly 
apply methods, formulas and 
equipment that produce. 

The thought of failure must 
not be tolerated. Prepare 
yourself right now for work. 
Chickens must be cared for 
systematically and intelli- 
gently. You are dealing with 
nature. Treat poultry as their 
chicken natures require and 
your reward will be success. 



Successful directions simph written 

Tel! you what to do, 
The number of dollars earned, Mr. Reader, 

Depends in the main upon YOU. 



^orea 



OITRK'^rii — (on^ifnted 



Right now, the world needs 
practical information put up 
in a way that the majority can 
understand and use profitably. 

Thejr is one thing certain — 

The Poultryman now in business, 
The live wire looking tor a business, 
The Farmer, or 

The fellow with a tew in the back- 
yard. 

You, if you're interested 
earnestly in poultry, cannot 
help but profit by the successes 
of others. That's what you 
have on the following pages — 
methods of success. Ask 
yourself this question: "What 
am I going to do with them?" 
If the stuff's in you the answer 
will be Succeed. 



Table of Contents 

The Commercial Hex ii-13 

From Egg to Laying Pullet ^3-3^ 

Selecting Hatching Eggs 13-16 

When to Hatch 17 

Incubation 17-21 

Shipping Baby Chicks 21-22 

Brooding 22-28 

Brooder House, Specifications and Descrip- 
tion 23-27 

Feeding Baby Chicks ~^-33 

Chick Yard or Run 23 

Water Supply 33-34 

Litter for Chicks and Birds Matured . . 34-35 

Broilers 35-3^ 

Laving House for from 80 to 100 Birds 

Specifications 37-45 

Feeding the Layers 45-46 

Culling, Sorting and Selecting .... 47-50 

Culling Layers 48 

Starting Point for THE Beginner . . . 51-52 

Winter Eggs 5-^-53 

Their Chick Natures 53-5^ 

Broodiness 56-57 

Breeding and Mating 59-6i 

Barnyard Flock 61-63 

Backyard T\\ elve 64-66 



Table of Contents — Continued 

Diseases and Remedies 66-70 

Lice and Mites 66 

R(nip 67 

White Diarrhoea 68 

Crop Bounci 69 

Miscellaneous Points Summarized . . . 7°-73 

Records 7^ 

I'ARM ro Secure and Hints ro Hei.i" Kuv It 73-77 

Kind of Soil 74 

Advantage of Trees 74 

I'sing Manure 75 

Raising Feed 7" 

Facts and Figures ....%..... 77-^^4 

First "^'ear to Sixth '^'ear 81-84 



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manual of ChiekenA 



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for Profitable Pouilin ^teinq 



The Commercial Hen 

/. An Egg Producer 
2. A Meat Producer 

If you are about to go into the poultry 
business for the money you can make out ot 
it, or if you are now in the business for the 
same reason, do not select show birds and 
expect that fine feathers mean egg produc- 
tion. Very seldom do we find such a com- 
bination. The breed selected must be of a 
strain with an egg-laying record back of it. 
Such birds are not only strong and healthy, 
but they are naturally vigorous and active. 
The best layers are the first ones up and the 
last ones to roost. They are always scratch- 
ing around supplying themselves with the 
very food and exercise most necessary to 
large egg production. 

Right here let us ask a very frank question. 
Are you after egg production, meat, or both? 
The best way to determine what you most 
desire is to study the market conditions sur- 
rounding you. If you are in a section where 
fancy prices are paid for meat, then make 
your choice of breeds appropriate. Pick out 
a heavy breed that will produce meat and 
therefore pay you best. Cater to the market. 
Produce eggs, if eggs pay better than meat. 
It is almost a golden rule, by the way, that egg 
production pays. You cannot go far astray 
if you decide on a good laying strain of the 




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manual of ChickenA 



breed you prefer. Vov eggs and meat both, 
a good laying strain of one of the heavier 
breeds should be sought. When going in for 
egg production especially, it is best to choose 
one of the lighter and more active breeds. 
Brown eggs bring high prices in some places 
and white ones pay big in others. Determine 
this choice ot color in eggs bv the market 
available to \'ou and raise accordingly. 
Around Boston we are told brown eggs are 
in great demand while in Central New "^'ork 
State white eggs bring the ianc\' prices. 

From a dolhir and cents standpoint, White 
Leghorns cannot be surpassed as egg pro- 
ducers, rhev produce large eggs and more 
of them with a minimum of feed. A maxi- 
mum percentage of all food value goes to the 
production of eggs instead of to fat, and egg 
production is in the majority of cases, the 
paying end of a commercial flock. White 
Leghorns are great foragers, cutting down 
feed consumption at least 1-3 as compared 
with birds of same breed confined. Indeed 
they are better foragers than other breeds. 
It is less trouble keeping the breed perfect. 
Birds are true to color. Meat is white and 
brings from |.o2 to $.05 more a pound in the 
best markets, although the amount of meat 
per bird is considerably less than with heavier 
breeds. Bones are small. It is easier to 
separate the sexes at an earh' age than with 
other breeds. More birds may be kept per 
house of given floor space. Last, but not 



for 'Profitable Poultri) ^RciiMnq 



least, high vitality is a White Leghorn charac- 
teristic. 

Up to this point we have considered the 
commercial hen in units of many rather than 
few, as a matter of business, as a matter oi 
livelihood. If you intend to raise a few birds 
in the back yard for the sake of a few fresh 
eggs and an occasional broiler, a good laying 
strain of almost any breed will be satisfac- 
tory. Changing breeds is many times very 
expensive, and therefore unprofitable, when 
large flocks are affected. With the back 
yard twelve, however, it is mainly up to the 
pleasure of the poultryman. You can change 
profitably and find pleasure in the variety. 

From Egg to Laying Pullet 

A section devoted to correct formulas and 
complete methods, accurately outlined in 
detail for the guidance of any and all persons 
interested in hens, few or many, as a prac- 
tical investment. 

Selecti)ig the Halchhig Egg. 

W^hen you buy eggs from a breeder you are 
of course, dependent to a great extent upon 
his honesty and ability. Be a breeder your- 
self as far as knowledge is concerned. Be 
able to tell just what you want. Eggs are 
eggs, that is true, but when they hatch you 
may not get at all what you want or expect. 
Avoid uncertainty as much as possible and 
the almost sure disappointment which fol- 
lows. When vou put vour money and time 



JJte'". 



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MTlonual of Chieken^ 



into the poultr\' game yoii are entitled to 
results. If you want an egg-laying strain of 
meaty birds, let the breeder know that. If 
you want single comb White Leghorns that 
breed all white, don't fail to explain, and, 
above all, be sure you start a strain for which 
you have a near market. 

Hatching eggs should come from bestbreed- 
ingstock, andifyou desire large eggproduction 
they should come from the very best layers. 

Hatching eggs should be large as possible but 
uniform in size and color. Not deformed, i. e., 
cracked, thin shelled or speckled (see page 15) 
when held up to light. Must be fresh, not over 
a week old, and must be turned at least once 
a day before placing same in incubator. /Al- 
ways keep in darkened room of even tem- 
perature below 70 degrees Fahrenheit, until 
ready for incubator. Room not too moist 
or too dry. A cellar that is not damp is 
generally suitable. 

Eggs from seven days to two weeks old 
may hatch well, but the vitality of an egg 
diminishes so rapidly after the sixth day 
that the chicks hatched from eggs of that age 
are not as strong as they would have been, 
if the same eggs had been set earlier. At the 
best the death rate among chicks is high. 
If eggs not over seven days old, therefore, 
tend to lower the death rate, let's use such 
eggs for hatching and give the chicks all the 
strength naturally coming to them. They 
will need it every bit. 



for 'Profitabl e Po ultrii ^feii/jng 




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fot' 'Profitable Poultry T^i4inq 



If'hcii to Hatch 

Sprints; is the natural time for the setting of 
eggs and the hatching o\ chicks. March, 
April and May is the recognized season. 
Chicks hatched during these months begin 
laying in the fall. Chicks hatched later are 
liable not to lav until the following spring. 
The lighter breeds, such as Leghorns, may 
be hatched later than the heavier breeds, 
and yet have time to reach matin-itv before 
winter. 

luciihatioii 

It might be truthfully said that nature's 
way of hatching by means of the mother hen 
is the best. For one or two units of from 
12 to 1 6 eggs each, it is, providing the hen is 
quiet, can spread herself sufficientlv to keep 
the eggs warm, and is free from lice and 
mites. The small flock in the back yard, or 
even the farmer's flock ot average si/e, can 
be reinforced by this natural method. When 
60 or more eggs are to be hatched, however, 
the modern commercial mother, known as the 
"incubator," does the job on a big and 
paying basis. 

For a setting of from 60 to 400 eggs best 
results are obtained with hot air incubators 
similar to the "Prairie State." For larger 
settings the "Hall" and other good hot water 
incubators prove most efficient. When the 
manufacturer tells you that his machine can 
be operated anywhere, regardless of outside 



fiieff 



f ITlanual of ^ Chiekei i4 



temperature, etc., just disregard him. The best 
incubator made is always more efficient if it is 
placed in a well sealed cellar with plenty of 
ventilation where the temperature varies but 



J^(^x^grfl^. 1 


1 



little, keeping it cool in summer and warm 
in winter. External heat in that cellar is not 
necessary if the place is properly built. 
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for "Profitable Poultru Ihximcj 



One of the most successful incubator cellars 
in the country, from the stancipointof strong, 
healthy chicks and high percentage (up to 
90 and even above) hatches, had a con- 
crete bottom about six feet below ground 
level laid on cinders. The walls were con- 
crete blocks run up to about two feet above 
ground, giving an eight foot depth to the 
cellar. There were three windows, one each 
on three sides, each about cellar window size, 
and they were hinged at the bottom so that 
air would not be directed down on to the in- 
cubator. Frosted glass or shades kept out 
the brightest glare of the sun (burlap cur- 
tains could be used tor the purpose), and the 
entire inside was whitewashed for cleanli- 
ness. Cleanliness is all important through- 
out the entire process of chicken raising. 

Suppose now, we turn to the handling of 
an incubator. 

A constant temperature of 103 degrees 
(not over 105 degrees) until chicks are 
hatched is verv important. After eggs are 
placed in machine they should be turned 
starting with the morning of the second day 
at 7 A. M. again at 7 p. m, of the same day, 
and twice daily thereafter at the same hours 
until eggs begin to pip or break through the 
shell. Incubator doors must be kept closed 
atter eggs begin to pip until chicks are 
thoroughly dry. Leghorn eggs will hatch in 
20 davs. Heavier breeds in 21 davs. 



peff 



manuQl of Chicken^ 



Kggs should be rested twice during the 
period oF incubation; at the end of the seventh 
day and again at the end of the fourteenth 
day. A high powered electric bulb held 
beneath the egg tray answers the purpose. 
Eggs entirely transparent at the seventh day 
testing are germless and should be removed. 
The appearance of a spider-like formation 
indicates the strong healthy germ. Dead 
germs may be recognized by a broken circle. 
At the end of the fourteenth day all eggs 
appearing black should be placed back in 
incubator. Only those entirely transparent 
to be removed. Care should be exercised 
not to chill eggs. Thev should be replaced 
in incubator as c]uickly as possible. 

One of the most difficult things for the 
average poultryman to appreciate is the 
sensitiveness of either growing germ or baby 
chick. The ends of the fingers are many 
times cold. By rolling the eggs with the 
warm palm of the hand, finger tips thrown 
up, the possibility of shock by chilling is not 
only lessened but the turning of eggs can be 
accomplished with greater speed and they 
can be replaced in the incubator quicker and 
with less exposure. 

To correctlv govern the temperature in 
the incubator a thermometer should be 
placed in each compartment with the bulb 
on a level with the tops of the eggs. Do not, 
however, let the eggs come in contact with 
this bulb, (jrowing germs gi^'e oft heat and 



for Profttable Poultni T^k^tnq 



contact with the thermometer makes its 
registry unreliable. Another point to guard 
against is the use ot mineral water in the hot 
water pipes of the hot water incubator. 
Always use rain water, and the degree ol 
variation in temperature will not increase 
so rapidly with the age of the incubator. 

When the chicks are thoroughly dry and 
the hatch is ready for transfer to the brooder 
use regular chick box warmed slightly to 
avoid chilling. After chicks have been re- 
moved and incubator carefully cleaned spray 
each compartment with "Zenoleum" (ten 
parts water to one part Zenoleum). 

Shipping Baby Chicks 

Make shipments ot day old chicks as 
soon as they are thoroughly dry. Imme- 
diate shipments are necessary, because food 




is not required tor three days, and chicks 
shipped by express (always ship by express) 
have usually reached their destination before 
three days are up. 

A chick will live 72 hoin-s without tood 
because it absorbs the egg yolk during that 
period. In fact food should never be given 
chicks before 48 hours, preferably not until 
~2 hours have expired. 



pett^ 



lll anual of' ChiekenA ; 



Shipments are made by means of a regular 
chick box purchased at any poultry supply 
house, or a cardboard box about i6 inches 
square and 5 inches high. A box of this 
size will accommodate 50 chicks. To give 
them air punch i 2 half inch holes in the sides, 
not in the cover. See that the inside space is 
divided by a partition in the middle. 2; 
chicks to one compartment are enough. Box 
should also be corrugated or roughened on 
the bottom so chicks will not slide around. 
But do not use straw or any other bedding in 
the box. When transferring chicks from 
incubator to box see that box is slightly 
warmed so as not to chill them. More chicks 
die from chilling than from any other cause. 
Always mark "Baby Chicks" plainly on the 
box. Expressmen and others responsible 
for them en route will then give them special 
care in handling. 

Brooding 

Coal burning brooder stoves are most 
efficient and least expensive for a commercial 
farm. Small hatches of from 15 to 20 chicks 
could be accommodated, but the cost of coal 
consumed and the size of house necessary to 
shelter such a brooder would not be war- 
ranted. For chicks in lots ot less than 50 the 
use of mother hens is more practical and 
economical. Broody hens can be bought in 
the spring for early hatches for $1.50. A 
common barrel placed on its side with a little 



for 'Profitable ^pQijitrij l^o ' vAnq 



straw at the hack makes an excellent house 
when placed in a dry spot (see page 64). 

For chicks in lots ot h'om 50 to 350 the coal 
burning brooder stove and the type of house 
illustrated herewith prove most satisfactory. 
It is possible to house 500 chicks in this 
type of building, but positively not advisable. 




Two Brooder Houses 

Brooder House Speeificat'wns and Description 

Floor 8 ft. X I 2 ft. of hard wood, tightly 
matched so leed won't lodge in cracks 
and get moldy. A coat of paint on 
the floor makes it easier to clean. 

Rear 4 ft. 6 in. high. Front 6 ft. 6 in. 
Rear and two ends tightly matched to 
prohibit drafts. 2 ply tar paper is used 
to excellent advantage as an outside wall 
covering. Through its use you make 



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ITlanuQl of Chieken^ 



sure that all seams are sealed and the 
chickens, therefore, well protected. 

Door in middle of front hung so that base 
comes below floor level. A yi in. piece, 
8 in. wide, fitted against the sill, full width 
of door will prevent all floor drafts. 

Two glass windows — one on either side of 
door at front of house. 

Air vents — Above both windows same 
width as window and 8 in. high. Vents 
covered with cheese cloth curtain, hinged 
inside. 

Slides or runners 4 in. x 6 in. each, raising 
house from ground, keeping it dry, free 
from rats and making it easily movable. 

Roosts should not be found in houses for 
small chicks until chicks are at least 8 weeks 
old. Better not until 10 or 12 weeks old. 
A roost of any description will cripple or bend 
the breast bone, which bone receives the 
weight of the bird when roosting. 

Roosts should be made of material at 
least i>^ in. in width and without sharp 
edges. A slightly rounded effect is best. 
Never use a narrow roost either with chicks 
or old birds. Deformities are sure to occur. 

Chicks should be transferred from incu- 
bator to brooder by means of warmed box 
same as that described under "Shipping 
Babv Chicks." For best results the tem- 
perature around the brooder should not fall 
below 90 degrees or run above 120 degrees 

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for IProfitablePouitrn T^i^iriq 



the first day. This temperature can grad- 
ually be reduced until generally at the end 
of eight weeks no heat is needed. A cold 
climate or damp rainy season may require 
heat for a longer period. 




Interior of Brooder House showing coal burning brooder stove 
hover and ijuard. 



ITIanual of (^hxeken^ 




In teaching baby chicks that warmth is 
to be found under the brooder it has been 
found necessary to erect a temporary guard 
or fence in the house, forcing them to stay 
near the stove. Boards or stiff roofing paper 
about lo inches in width may be stood on 
edge encircHng the stove in an arc about 
8 inches greater in diameter than the 
hover. This guard can safely be removed 
at the end of the third day. 

Hot coals shaken into the base of the coal 
burning brooder stove sometimes generate a 
heat too intense for the chicks that huddle up 
close. By placing a foundation of bricks 
under the stove, just one laver (two inches) 
thick so they don't extend out from the 
base, but just come flush, such excess heat is 



for l^rofitable Poultrn 'te>'tncj 



dispensed with. Bricks, stove, hover and 
guard are all shown on page 25. 

Great care should be given the stove pipe 
where it passes through the roof. First on 
account of fire, second on account of water. 
Two extremes it would seem, but both must 
be guarded against. Cut the hole in the roof 
at least two inches larger in diameter than 
the stovepipe. Anchor the pipe in the centre 
by means of a funnel-shaped piece of tin with 
the hole in the small end just large enough to 
slide down over the pipe. Wedge a piece of 
asbestos between pipe and tin. Tack edges 
of large opening of funnel-shaped tin to the 
roof and paint seams with coal tar. This 
construction is not only fire proof, but the 
heaviest downpour of rain can not leak in. 
Remember chicks must be kept dry and warm. 

If you will now notice the hover, page 25, 
you will notice a flange or curtain of canvas 
hanging from its outer edge. When the 
hover is lowered, this curtain falls about 
four inches inside the guard and should be 
so arranged that when at rest it hangs about 
one and a half inches from the floor. A 
hand hole in the hover permits ol adjust- 
ments on the stove without raising the hover 
and changing the temperature. A suspension 
rope strung through two pulleys, one directly 
above the stove and the other at the front of 
the house by the door, enables the operator 
to raise the hover a little each day until 
chicks are old enough to take it away entirely. 



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fJTlQnual of Chieken^ 



Forlitter,see page34. Remember it is never 
advisable to put 500 chicks under one hover. 
3^0 ought to be the maximum for an expert; 
considerably less than that for an amateur. 

Feeding Baby (thicks 

Ahtr chicks are at least 48 hours old, and 
when they show a strong desire to eat, com- 
mon rolled oats should be sprinkled dry 5 
times a day on glazed wrapping paper spread 
out on the litter. This enables chicks to 
readily see it. Give them as much rolled 
oats as they will clean up in 10 minutes. 
Do not give chicks any water the first day of 
feeding, nothing but warm sour milk. The 
lactic acid in the milk tends to overcome 



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(Jlass Chick Fountain tor either water or sour skim milk 
28 



for "ProfitQ bl ePQuitai '^foi^inq 



white diarrhoea. As much milk as they will 
drink should be kept before them. Always 
put milk in glass dishes as lactic acid acts on 
tin or other metals forming a deadly poison. 

SECOND DAY 

In place oi rolled oats, five feedings ot a 
mixture composed of 

lo lbs. ot bread crumbs, 
lo lbs. of middlings, 
3 lbs. of beef scrap, 
1 lb. of bone meal, 
lo lbs. of bran, 
moistened but not soaked with sour skim 
milk, should be spread on the papers. As 
much of this mixture as chicks will clean up 
in lo minutes. 

Important. — Chicks at all ages feed early 
and feed late. They should have about one 
hour before dark to clean up the last feeding. 
Clear fresh water should be introduced the 
second day and kept before chicks in abund- 
ant supply from then on. 

SECOND DAY TO END OF FIFTH DAY 

Feed mixture as outlined tor second day. 
In addition teed a mash composed of: 
loo lbs. of middlings, 
lOO lbs. of bran, 
lOO lbs. ot corn meal, 
loo lbs. of beef scrap, 
30 lbs. of bone meal, 
thoroughly mixed half and half with com- 
mercial chick feed. This mash should be 



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Ulanual of Chickei t6j 



placed in shallow tins or dishes (pie tins) 
and kept before chicks at all times, 

FIFTH DAY TO END OF SECOND WEEK 

Omit mixture described under second day. 
Separate commercial chick feed from mash 
and spread chick feed in litter three times a 
day. One liberal measuring cup full to loo 
chicks. Mash as described under "Second 
day to end of fifth day," but without the 
commercial chick feed, to be retained in 
dishes before chicks at all times.- 

In addition to dry mash in dishes give 
chicks mash moistened with sour skim milk, 
as much as they will clean up each time in 
15 minutes. Spread moist mash on papers, 
using new papers every morning. Every pre- 
caution should be taken to insure the chicks 
from contact with moldy feed, moldy dishes 
or moldy papers. Mold is dangerous. Sour 
milk should be watched for signs of molci and 
dishes should be thoroughly cleansed each 
time when filled. Chicks from the fifth day 
to end of second week should have sour milk 
constantly before them, in fact they should 
have it up to the age of 6 weeks. 

Caution — Fresh water should not only be 
kept before chicks at all times, but it should 
be kept in chick fountains and not pans. It 
is impossible for the chicks to get into the 
water and get damp or drown if a fountain 
is used. A small two-piece fountain is best, 
consisting of container and drip pan. Several 
small fountains per house, rather than a 
30 



for l^rofitablg Pouiini T^iiinq 




large one are ad\'isable. 
Such fountains can be 
easily cleaned and scrub- 
bed. This should be 
done often to prevent 
disease. 

SECOND WEEK TO EXD 
OF FOURTH WEEK 

Dry mash in pans .. ^ 

before chicks at all r^, '*'^'*^^, 

Moist mash twice a day, as much as they 
will clean up in i^ minutes, fed as described 
above. Chick feed twice a day spread in 
litter as scratch. Sour milk and fresh water 
to be before them at all times. 

FOURTH WEEK TO EXD OF EICiHTH WEEK 

Dry mash in pans at all times. 
Omit wet mash unless hatch is late and 
forced feeding is desired. If such is the 
case feed wet mash once a da\' at noon. 

Omit chick feed and substitute a scratch 
teed composed of 

loo lbs. whole wheat, 
50 lbs. cracked corn, 
25 lbs. oats, 
or any good commercial scratch feed. Bar- 
ley is a good substitute tor wheat when the 
price of wheat is high. 
Fresh water at all times. 
Sour milk up to the age of 6 weeks. 



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fjl lanual of Chiekea^ 



ei(;ht weeks to maturity 
I^ry mash in open lioppers at all times. 
Scratch gram as described under "Fourth 
Week to Knd of Kighth Week" in hoppers at 
all times. In winter for laying pullets 25 lbs. 
of buckwheat should be added to the scratch 
formula. 

Sudden change of feed should always be 
avoided, especially with laying pullets. A 
change, if necessary, should be gradually 
effected so as to disturb the laying capacity of 
the pullet as little as possible. 

Hoppers for both mash and scratch can be 
made as follows: 

One length of H-in. stoye pipe. 
One pan about j in. deep and about 
4 in. larger in diameter than pipe, 
pipe from ceiling of house by 
wire so base will hang about one- 
half inch from feed pan. A 
cheap and easily constructed 
hopper but very efflcient. 

Chicks and chickens should 
have all the green stuff they can 
eat right from the very first day 
of feeding. Cabbage, mangel 
beets, lettuce and sprouted oats 
make excellent food. Feed beets 
and cabbage in grated form. A 
grater same as useci by any house- 
wife will do the work. In the 
summer season where chickens 
can forage ox'er many acres, the poultryman 




for l^rofitoble Poultat T^i^'mq 



does not have to worry about the feeding ot 
green stuff. If the natural supply is limited, 
however, the above foods should be available 
together with about one acre of clover or 
alfalfa to every 500 layers. When hens are 
confined, as in winter, it is absolutely neces- 
sary to feed plenty of green food. 

The Chick Yard or RiDi 

Chicks should be kept in brooder house 
until after 10 days old unless weather is very 
warm and sunny. At 10 days of age, let 
them out into grass run about 6 ft. square to 
every 100 chicks. Such a yard should be 
enlarged from time to time until chicks can 
fly over a fence 1 ft. high. Such fence can 
then be eliminated and chicks given free 
range over a larger tract. 

The Watei' Supply 

Clear fresh water should be kept constantly 
before chicks and chickens alike after they 
are two days old. Interior fountains are 
used for baby chicks until they are given 
free range. (Too much emphasis cannot be 
placed upon cleanliness of water fountains. 
Do not rinse them, scrub them and do it 
thoroughly. These same fountains can be 
used for feeding sour milk.) An outdoor sup- 
ply should then be provided. A water 
system consisting of pipes run to each 
brooder and laying house would be ideal. 
Where such a system is impossible, barrels 
may be used. 



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f ^anual of Chieken^ 



With a flock of 500 layers at least 3 barrels 
should be found at various points not over 
500 feet from the houses. A spigot or tap 
at the base of each barrel allows the poultry- 
man to either let the water drip slowly into 
dish pans, or to draw the pan full at least 
twice a day. 

A convenient way of filling such barrels is 
to have them mounted singly on small stone 
boats. They may then be hauled from the 
place of filling to any spot selected sufficiently 
near the colony houses. 

Litter for Chicks and Birds Matured 

Before baby chicks are put into brooder, 
the floor should be covered with one-half 
inch of very fine but imiform gravel as grit 
for the gizzard. This to be the only litter 
within the confines of the guard around the 
brooder stove. As soon as the guard is re- 
moved, giving chicks run of house, the floor 
should be well covered with finely chopped 
rye or wheat straw. Damp moldy straw 
should never be used; neither should sawdust 
or shavings. Clean, dry straw finely chopped 
is the best known litter. 

A change of litter is required as soon as it 
becomes soiled. A clean house means strong 
birds, no lice, and insurance against disease. 
House should be disinfected at each cleaning 
with a good coal tar disinfectant, mixed ten 
parts kerosene to one part disinfectant, and 
sprayed thoroughly with hand sprayer. 

J 4 



for "ProfitQblePouitat T^i^'mq 



At the end of six weeks time whole straw 
can be used, not too deep at first but suf- 
ficient to cover the floor with a thickness of 
several inches. For birds matured the litter 
should always be six inches or more in depth. 
The importance of dry straw for any litter 
cannot be over estimated. Watch the litter 
closely, change it often and be sure that straw 
is neither damp nor moldy. 

Broilers 

Chicks are not broilers when eight or ten 
weeks old, but let us go back that far to 
study housing conditions tor a moment. 
From the time they were transferred from 
incubator to brooder up to the eight weeks' 
age they have been housed in the brooder 
house. Proper change of litter, the graduating 
change of feed from paper to pan, to hopper, 




ZS 



//Mnanualof Chiekenib 



j^/"^ 



etc. (see Feeding Baby Chicks, page 28) has 
taken place, and now you have a little flock 
at the age of eight weeks with the inclination 
to roost. Never supply them with anything 
to roost on before that age and preferably not 
until 10 or 12 weeks old, or you will develop 
crippled, bent breast bones. As there are 
no roosts in the brooder house, when chicks 
are old enough to roost, what is the most 
economical method of providing the right 
equipment? Laying houses are out of the 
question if you have planned production 
right, from year to year. They should 
be busy housing prize stock in part and 
layers in the rest. By the time chicks 
are eight or ten weeks old you will find, 
furthermore, that with even 250 chicks in a 
brooder house same size as described on 
page 23, that there is none too much room. 
The economical thing to do is to convert the 
brooder house temporarily into a colony 
house and install removable roosts. (See 
"Roosts", page 41). Then by means of 
culling, sorting and selecting (see page 47), 
you will weed out the cockerels, the weaklings, 
and the future non-producers, placing them 
in some temporary house by themselves 
until large enough, probably about iK lbs. 
in weight, to sell for broilers. All cockerels 
should be sold except those selected for 
breeding purposes. Never feed vour profits 
to non-producers. Turn them into money 
or swat them. 

36 



for T^rofitoblePoultrif T^i^inq 



Laying House 
for from 80 to 100 Birds 

(For 100 White Leghorns) 

Many poultrymen make the serious mis- 
take of using any old trap with four walls and 
a cover as a laying house. In the first place 
hens must be contented, and they never are 
contented in a dark filthy hole. Sunlight is 
a natural protection besides. It kills germs 
and provides warmth. A clean, light, airy house 
facing the south must be obtained. A row 
of houses end to end can be used, or individual 
houses separated at the will of the poultryman 
are O. K. As a matter of convenience, if 
the yards can be satisfactorily arranged to 
keep fiocks separated, the houses are better 
in apartment style end to end. 

Specifications for One Laying House 

FLOOR 

20 ft. square; made of cement to be ver- 
min proof and sanitary, 

REAR 

5 ft. high. Front — 7 ft. high and facing 
south. 

CURTAINED WINDOW 

Of cheese cloth hung in center and at top 
of front — size lo ft. long by y/i ft. high. 
Hinges should be at top of curtained frame, 
which frame is the only covering this opening 
has winter or summer. Curtain should 



j;teff 



nnanual of ChiekenA 




for T^rofitablePoultni '^l^i^mq 




39 



JX^ 



rnianual of ChiehenA 



never be closed in daytime, and only at night 
when temperature is below zero. Cheese 
cloth should be kept clean at all times to aid 
ventilation. Lack of ventilation may de- 
velop roup overnight. 

WINDOWS 

Two in number in front, one on each side 
of curtained window. These to be of glass 
and cut from ceiling to about i ft. from 
floor. The function of these windows is to 
give sunlight over entire floor area even with 
curtain closed. 

LINING 

This is necessary only in cold climates. 
The interior lined with matched lumber 
makes a 4 inch air space which adds greatly 
to the warmth. 

WATER TAN 

Place on slatted platform at opposite end 
of house from mash hopper. This will en- 
courage exercise back and forth from mash to 
water. Platform must be raised 18 in. from 
floor so chickens can scratch underneath. 

DUST BOX 

Box containing sifted dirt or ashes and 
a little lice powder sifted in about 3 times 
a week should be near front of house. Hens 
will dust themselves, 

DROPBOARD 

Three feet from floor, 4 ft. wide, running 
entire length of house at back. Should be 
level, not pitched. 

40 



iov T^rofitablePoultni ^^iMnq 



ROOSTS 

Three in number, 2 in. x 3 in. in size, built 
on rests about 5 in. above dropboard; should 
run full length of house. Rests hinged at the 
back enable poultrymen to raise roosts and 
clean dropboard easily. Dropboard should 
be cleaned at least once a week, oftener in 
hot weather. Ashes sifted on boards after 
cleaning will f^^cilitate work and decrease 
danger of vermin. 



—■-^— H^ — Hf- ■'— -y 




Cross Section of Laying House Nests, Drop Board 
and Roosts 



f^Qnual of Chieken^ 




42 



for "Profitable 'Poultiii "feii^inq 



ABOUT TWENTY NESTS PER HOUSE 

Suspend nests under dropboard and flush 
with front. Each nest to be about 12 in. 
square and 12 in. high. Door covering front 
of nests and hinged at bottom l<.eeps them 
dark. Rear of nests to have free opening 
at all times. 

MASH HOPPER 

Built at one end midway between drop- 
board and front of house. 4 ft. long, 3 ft. 
high, 3 in. wide at bottom and 2 ft. wide at 
near edge of cover. Cover slanted at 45 
degrees and hinged at top. Hopper to 




Mash Hopper in Laying He 

43 




A 



nHonual of Chicken4 



empty into trough about 6 in. wide and i in. 
down from mouth of hopper, i^^ in. lip to 
run entire length of trough and hold feed in 
place. Platform for birds to stand on sus- 
pended from base of hopper and on same 
level with trough. Entire hopper so arranged 
that platform will be i8 in. above floor. 

GRIT, OYSTER SHELL AND CHARCOAL HOPPER 

Small three-section hopper containing these 
ingredients should be before birds at all times. 

TRAP DOOR 

An opening large enough for the largest 
fowl should be cut through the front of 
laying or brooder house and near the floor. 
A metal door has been devised which slides 
back automatically at the break of day 
allowing the chicks or chickens to forage 
early according to nature and catch the early 
worm. If it were not for skunks, rats, cats 
and other night prowlers, 1 1,000,000 worth 
of chickens would not be lost annually and 
a trap door would not be needed. The 
opening alone would suffice. 

But the opening must be closed at night 
and should be open at the first wink of dawn. 
The "metal" door referred to does this by 
means of a feed cup which tempts the first 
bird down in the morning. The slight con- 
tact between her bill and the feed releases 
the door. It's sure to operate, never fails, 
and best of all, is so simple in construction 
that nothing can get out of order. Such a 
door is cheap insurance. 

44 



for 'Profitable Pouitai T^i^inq 




Laying House Trap Door 

The publishers of this book will gladly put 
you in touch with the manufacturer upon 
application. 
Note 

A hole cut in the dividing partition be- 
tween two 20 X 20 houses built end to end 
makes it possible to accommodate 150 birds 
per house instead of 100. 

Feeding the Layers 

About six quart pail of standard scratch 
feed spread in litter for each 100 birds one 
hour before dark. 

Make test to determine exact amount by 
putting feed in piles on the floor. 

The best birds or those with highest 
vitality will finish feeding first. All birds 
should be satisfied in 20 minutes time. If 
at the end of 20 minutes the feed has not 
all been consumed, the birds are getting too 
much, and the amount should be cut down. 
On the other hand, if the feed is rapidly 
45 




^manual of Chieken^ 



cleaned up in much less than 20 minutes time, 
and the birds still show a strong desire to eat, 
the amount should be increased until they 
are satisfied as described above. One-third 
of the quantity fed at night should also be 
fed about 6 each morning. 
Mash consisting of: 

200 lbs. beef scraps, 

200 lbs. white middlings, 

200 lbs. corn meal, 

100 lbs. wheat bran, 

100 lbs. crushed oats, 
3S lbs. Old Process Oil Meal, 
4 lbs. salt, 
should be kept in hoppers before layers 
from 12 M. to 7 A. M. the following morning. 
If birds are not on tree range give plenty of 
green food, such as mangel beets, cabbage, 
sprouted oats or something of equal value. 




for "Profitable Pouitni T^l^inq 



Culling, Sorting and Selecting 

Right here let us state emphatically that 
you can't make money from chickens and 
feed your profits to non-producers. Culling 
is one of the most important things for a 
poultryman to insist upon. Intelligent cull- 
ing requires time, patience, and knowledge 
rarely possessed by the average owner of 
chickens. Weaklings must be sorted out, 
disease must be nipped in the bud, and poor 
layers or non-producers must be disposed of 
as quickly as possible. But which are they? 
What are the indications? Can the poultry- 
man be sure that his sorting is correct? 

Culling should start the day chicks are 
taken from the incubator. Dwarfs and 
weaklings should be swatted immediately if a 
vigorous flock is to be maintained. In- 
variably it is the weakling that harbors 
disease. 

Lack of vitality, sluggishness, drooping 
wings and tail, shivering, etc., can be nursed 
along, but in the majority of cases it does not 
pay. Cockerels should be sorted when weigh- 
ing about 1% lbs. and sold for broilers. The 
best retained for breeders. 

When sorting pullets for layers, large birds 
well fleshed, vigorous, head erect, tail erect, 
eye clear and comb bright should be retained; 
all others should be sold for broilers. 

Culling, sorting and selecting starts with 
the poultry business every time. Hatching 



j^# 



f^Tlanual of Chieheniib 



eggs require selection. Tests show infertile 
eggs and dead germs. In spite of the most 
exacting tests and the discarding of all 
questionable eggs a certain percentage of the 
chicks won't hatch. Another percentage 
never reach the brooder. They are weaklings 
and you swat them. Still others chill, have 
the white diarrhoea or some other charac- 
teristic disease. Then comes the time when 
you sort for the standard of perfection. One 
bunch you sell for broilers, the other is kept 
and tenderly watched as the coming layers 
and breeders to be. Finally breeders and 
layers are separated and again the process 
of elimination takes place. i\mong the 
layers you find broody hens and hens with 
conspicuous color pigment in legs and beak. 
You sort them out. Outside of the selection 
of stock for breeding and, therefore, from the 
stancipoint of egg production, the culling of 
layers is of prime importance. 

Culling Layers 

The points to look for in a good layer 
are — 

Eye clear and bright, 
Comb red, 
Bill not too long. 
Head and tail erect. 
Crop full. 

Body wedge shaped. 
Breast deep so as to consume large 
quantities of feed, 

48 



for T^rofitoblePoultni T^i^inq 



Legs far apart and not too long, 
Rear quarters heavy and broad, 
Not over fat. 

Any white leghorn or yellow-legged variety 
of bird showing yellow beak, yellow legs, 
comb pale and rather dried up should be sold 
for meat. Heavy producers always lay 
yellow pigment out of vents, eyelids and 
bill during the laying season. The color 
fading from these parts in the order named. 
An empty crop usually indicates lack of 
vitality and therefore a poor layer. Early 
moulters are poor layers. Once in a while 
a good layer will moult slowly and never stop 
laying. 




Pelvic 



Xon-Producer 




Good Laver 


arch X to X ne; 
closed. 


rly 


Three-finger distance between 
pelvic bones x to x. 



49 




/' 



nTlonual of ChiekenA 



To be sure that you are correct in your 
analysis of indications examine the pelvic 
bones. This should be done at night to 
avoid exciting the birds. 

Ample capacity for three lingers between 
the pelvic bones indicates an excellent layer. 
Two fingers, medium. Capacity for but 
one finger or closed pelvic bones means that 
bird has ceased laying and will not lay for 
some time to come. 

It is by all means best to turn such non- 
producing stock into money and save the 
feed. 

It may seem peculiar to say that hens have 
temperaments, but they do, and one type is 
tempered for the market, the other for egg 
production. That temperament may be the 
fault of the poultryman and it may not. 
Good layers have high strung nervous tem- 
peraments. They are the first off the roost 
and the last to bed. They are alert and 
active. Poor lavers are prone to bask in the 
sun, mope on the perch, etc. But the 
healthy poor layer will eat just as much and 
sometimes more than the good layer. She 
usually has a fat, heavy thick abdomen that 
sags below the breast bone instead of the 
loose elastic abdomen of the good layer. 
Therefore watch the temperament and sort 
or cull continuously and persistently. There 
is no one way in the poultry game of making 
money easier than by saving it through 
culling. 

5° 



tor 'ProfttoblePouitai T^i^inq 



A Starting Point for the 
Beginner 

Mr. Beginner, read the section on Culling, 
which just precedes this paragraph. With 
the absolute importance of culling in mind, 
turn to the section "From Egg to Laying 
Pullet." Follow it through to a finish and 
then ask yourself this question: Can I afford 
to wait all that time before any money starts 
to come in, and at the same time run all the 
preliminary chances of failure besides? If 
you can then do it. There's money in it, and 
we want to encourage, not discourage you, 
but you might just as well face the facts 
squarely and act according to circumstances. 
The business of this book is to better the 
poultry business as a profitable undertaking. 
You can make money quicker as a sustaining 
factor for your business by purchasing grown 
birds, not hatching eggs. You won't make 
more money necessarily, although we are 
inclined to think beginners usually do by 
this method, but you will have something 
coming in which is mighty good moral sup- 
port, and in addition you will have a better 
chance to become acquainted with hens and 
know what to expect. Please realize that 
our point ot view is taken from the stand- 
point of profit, rather than pleasure. The 
most genuine pleasure in any field of en- 
deavor is conceived as we see it, however, 



hi 



rUlanual of ChiekenA, 



from a knowledge of your own latent powers 
to produce profitably. 

Decide first upon what branch of the 
poultry bushiess you wish to specialize 
(show stock and breeding, meat or egg pro- 
duction), and then go to a reliable breeder and 
tell him your troubles. He will help you 
pick out a breed and a strain of that breed, 
best adapted to accomplish what you have 
in mind. Always remember there are dif- 
ferent strains of the same breed. One may 
be a laying or egg-producing strain and the 
other a meat-producing strain. With the 
grown bird you can start immediately with 
an egg or meat-producing machine and get 
prompt results. But don't purchase mon- 
grels, that is, do not mix breeds. Either set 
a goal and aim at it with your one breed of 
the desired strain, or, if you want to, establish 
more than one breed, but keep them separate. 
Poultry raising is a science and mongrels are 
anything but a scientific product. 

Winter Kggs 

It sounds very well to say "Produce eggs 
when the prices are highest," but you can. 
You have to take that very egg production 
into consideration long before you expect to 
trot to market and get your big prices. 
You have to go away back in the process to 
the time of hatching. Whether you hatch 
the eggs or whether you buy the chickens 
makes no difference, the time of hatching is 



for T^rofitoblePouita} T^i^inq 



what counts. Light weight active breeds, 
like the White Leghorn, must be hatched later 
than heavier breeds that take a longer time 
to develop. March, i\pril and May are the 
hatching months and the time of hatching 
can be set in that period according to the 
nature of the breed. Chicks hatched too 
early will moult before winter as a rule and 
that means no winter eggs. That is a most 
unfortunate circumstance because pullets 
lay more eggs than old hens. Hatch, there- 
fore, so that you will have laying pullets, and 
cull them carefully (see section on Culling), 
to rid yourself of the non-producers. With 
the right feeding, right housing and intelli- 
gent handling there is no reason why you 
should not have winter eggs. 

Their Chicken Natures 

To be most productive chickens require 
quiet and solitude. The unusual excites 
them more or less, and nervous tension 
hinders the progress of nature. To go about 
actively foraging in their own way, unmolest- 
ed and over a sufficiently large territory, 
enables the organs of nature to function 
regularly and make the most out of the food 
rations given them. Confinement among 
breeders furthermore means less fertile eggs. 

This productivity of the chicken is easily 
understandable by comparison with the 
human being. Undue excitement produces 
indigestion. The cells of the stomach under 

53 



/K/"! 



/// Manual of ChiekonA 



tension fail to absorb their normal quota. 
Instead of nourishing, food has to be forced 
from the system as a waste and the result is 
lack of human efficiency. 

These principles of nature apply to the 
chicken. Fear agonizes the organs of pro- 
duction and time has to help them get back 
to normal. Fear and excitement should 
therefore be avoided. Strange people, chil- 
dren or any other disturbing factor should be 
kept as far distant as possible. It is so easy 
to be thoughtless and unintentionally create 
a state of unrest. For instance, one poultry- 
man set up a buz saw operated by a gasoline 
engine almost immediately back of his laying 
house and then wondered why his egg pro- 
duction fell off. "Not I," you say, and of 
course you would not do a thing of that kind 
consciously, but other activities just as 
peculiar have taken place among the most 
sincere. Keep the idea well in mind that 
you are dealing with nature when you are in 
the chicken business, and while she may be 
guided into new and different channels, she 
cannot be tampered with or neglected. 

Clean out your houses while the birds are 
foraging. Treat them kindly when you 
drive them out for this purpose. Cause 
them to scamper towards you and not away 
from you by your very actions. Then, too, 
when you wish to cull or sort do not go at it 
in a desperate manner. Do it at night when 
the birds are quiet. Take a spot light with 

54 



for T'rQfltQblePoultai T^i(>inq 




you, work carefully and quietly. Practically 
every chicken in a house can be examined 
or treated as the occasion requires without 
any bad or disturbing effects. 

Once in a while chickens will acquire 
peculiar habits. Usually there is a reason. 
When you find a feather puller look for mites. 
They live at the base of the feathers and 
cause an irritation that sometimes keeps up 
until the chicken is half naked. For treat- 
ment see "Diseases and Remedies." 

Another bad habit is egg-eating. Some 
experts claim that enough available lime 
and oyster shells will overcome the desire. 
Throwing egg shells into the chicken yard 
has been known to start the habit. If you 
brown the shells and break them up fine 
there is no danger and they should be given 
back to the flock. Egg-eating may be over- 



hi 

fteff 



hrionual of ChiekenA 



come by means of nests built to let the egg 
roll through the bottom into a bag, but this 
method cannot be considered a cure. Allow- 
ing one hen to continue her egg-eating is bad 
practice, because the other members of the 
flock soon catch on and do likewise. A sure 
way of effecting a cure is to use the axe. It's 
the most profitable way sometimes. Remem- 
ber, a lot of time spent on one bird will not 
better conditions for the majority. You 
might better rid yourself of her presence. 

One other habit, that of flying over fences 
is a very easy one to overcome. Clip the 
feathers of one wing and the cure is eflective 
if not permanent. 

Molting is a characteristic, rather than a 
habit. It is the natural shedding of feathers. 
It takes place sometime between August i 
and the first snow flurries. Early molters are 
always the poorest layers. They might lay 
a few eggs in the fall, but production would 
stop during the winter and it does not pay 
to keep them. When molting the bird's 
vitality goes toward new feathers and not 
toward eggs. 

Broodiness 

The broody hen has a well fixed idea that 
she wants to sit. She resents any effort to 
drive her from the nest. In fact, driving her 
off won't do a whole lot of good. She will 
undoubtedly cluck around for a few moments 

56 



for l^rofltable Pouitrii '^l^i^inq 



and go back again at the first opportunity. 
Hens should be broken of broodiness the 
first day it appears. One authority states 
that the ovary of a hen after one day of 
broodiness contains an abundance of mina- 
ture yolks of eggs ready for laying within a 
short period. By the third day of broodi- 
ness, these yolks largely are absorbed. A 
hen's temperature rises when she is broody, 
and the best way to break her is to place her 
in a small coop with a slat bottom that will 
keep the under part of the body cool. 

Tests also show that hens are much more 
subject to broodiness when nest eggs are 
used and when eggs are not gathered fre- 
quently. In a Missouri State Experiment 
Station test, two pens of six leghorns each 
were used, and in the second pen, having a 
nest full of china eggs, the hens went broody 
a total of eleven times in two months, while 
thefirst pen did not have a single broody hen. 




57 



pe^^ 



f^Qnual of Chicken^ 







s 



Prize Cockerel 



58 



for T^rofttoblePoultri) T^iAinq 



Breeding and Mating 

In order to maintain a high producing flocls:, 
hens should be mated to cockerels bred from 
high producing mothers. The cockerel is 
just as important as the hen. A low bred 
cockerel mated to a high producing hen cuts 
down egg production. But a cockerel large 
in size, well matured and full of vigor and 
vitality, that came from a high producing 
mother when mated to a high producing hen 
increases egg production. One such cockerel 
mated to ten such hens makes the correct 
proportion. 

Cockerels should be kept away from pullets 
and hens except at the breeding season. 
Their presence is annoying to the hen and 
cuts down egg production. For table use 
germless eggs, furthermore, bring a higher 
price than fertile eggs. At least once every 
five years new blood should be introduced by 
the purchase of new cockerels. It is not 
advisable to inbreed more than five seasons. 

Pullets should never be used for breeding 
purposes. A two year old hen makes best 
breeder because of rest during the winter and 
the unusual strength of the eggs when they 
start laying. Hens that persist in laying 
through summer months and don't show 
signs of molting until fall should be kept over 
winter for breeders the next spring. The 
eggs produced by such hens hatch a stronger, 
bigger and more vigorous chick. 

59 



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peff 



fJHanual of Chieken^ 



Hens two years old or more mated to 
old cock birds produce a high percentage of 
cockerels and should not be so mated. Hens 
two years old or more mated to cockerels 
hatched the preceding spring produce a 
high percentage of pullets and are therefore 
properly mated. It is never desirable or 
profitable to keep the male birds into the 
second season. All male birds should be dis- 
posed of as rapidly as possible when not to be 
used for breeding purposes. 

Coming back to the subject of inbreeding; 
what does it lead to? Let us answer this 
question by asking another. What happens 
in the human family if cousins, for example, or 
other close kin marry? The children are degen- 
erate, weak and physically incapable of with- 
standing disease. Let us not question the 
great rulings of nature. The more we try to 
attack them with our own explanations the 
more mystified we become. All animal life 
as far as we know is governed by the breed- 
ing of kin as far distant as possible. At any 
rate it works out with chickens. Pick out 
the most active, strong, representative birds 
of distant relationship for mating. 

Libreeding engenders physical weakness, 
and such blood should not be transmitted to 
future generations of your flocks. You can't 
raise egg-producers if you practice inbreed- 
ing. Nature forbids. Once in a while among 
animal life, you find a man peculiarly fitted to 
choose breeding stocks. He senses rather 
60 



for "Profitable Poultrn T^i^'mq 



than reasons, and he does it mainly with his 
eye. This cannot be done with accuracy or 
safety among poultry. The feathers deceive. 
Don't try it. Follow the successful experi- 
ence of others and profit by your own mis- 
takes. At least if you desire success, don't 
continue to inbreed. 

The Barnyard Flock 

What is true of the commercial flock is true 
of the barnyard flock or the backyard 12. 
Equipment only should be modified to suit 
circumstances. Decide what you want to 
accomplish and follow the line of least re- 
sistance by following nature. As a rule, both 
meat and eggs are desired from the farm- 
yard flocks. 




Rhode Island Red (Meat Strain] 
61 




fi 



nrianual of ChiekenA 



Pick out a medium weight breed and 
an egg-laying strain. Don't harbor 
mongrels. While your feed don't cost much, 
because it's mostly waste, neither does it 
produce much when fed to mongrels as com- 
pared to what it might produce at no greater 
cost when fed to a good egg-laying strain of 
medium weight birds. Farmyard flocks have 
advantages of feed and disadvantages. The 
range is usually ideal, and in season they get 
plenty of green stuff and bugs, but on the 
other hand they many times either get all of 
one kind of feed or else lack that particular 
kind entirely. 

If you have a farmyard flock, follow the 
section "feeding the layers" as nearly as 
possible. You know pretty well what the 
hens are getting when foraging. Make up a 
feed balance by supplying the items they 
don't get. If you lack some of the exact 
constituents of the formulas, put in something 
of similar food value. 

See that your hens have plenty of fresh 
water conveniently located, so they won't be 
forced to drink the barnyard stench. It 
causes disease. Give them proper housing, 
and in winter see that they have meat scraps 
and green stuff". Take care of the litter, change 
it; you've got the stuff" going to waste. Filth 
won't produce eggs. 

On the farm the mother hen ably and 
naturally takes the place of the commercial 
incubator. 

62 



iov "Profitable Poultni T^i^'mq 




Sfe^^*<5i^^'~' 



^''ir^^^i 




For best results, it is well not to give 
her more than 14 eggs. Try her out 
before the hatching eggs are placed under 
her by means of china eggs. She may fool 
you and stay on the nest only a couple of days. 
If she shows signs of permanency, give her 
the real eggs and prepare for chicks. Re- 
member that lice are one of the first dangers 
when the mother hen is used. Her feathers 
should be dusted thoroughly with lice powder 
often enough to avoid any chances. Her little 
flock when hatched, should be kept from wet 
grass and chilling. This can be done by 
housing the mother in a coop and by screening 
in a small yard or run in front of it. For 
chick feed, culling and other points of 
necessity, examine the sections of this book 
under those headings. Culling is all import- 
ant. It means that you weed out non-pro- 
ducers, and furthermore hinder them from 
raising more non-producers. 

(>3 



hi 



(Manual of Chiekgn^ 



The Backyard Twelve 



Constant attention is seldom it ever given 
the tiny flock found in the townsman's back- 
yard. For this reason we believe that the 
purchase of birds to start in with is more 
profitable than the raising of chicks. It is of 
course true that the backyard 12 are many 
times the owner's hobby. He likes birds and 
he likes to experiment and fuss with them. 
From the standpoint of pleasure taken in 
producing, raising and cross breeding a small 
flock, the science of poultry raising can 
have little application. We treat the subject, 
however, from the profitable angle, and any- 
thing we say therefore will be pointed out 
from the scientific point of view. Ten hens, 
not more than twelve, and one rooster make 
one practical unit, providing fertility of eggs 
is desired. Fertile eggs are not necessary, in 
fact with pullets are not desirable, because the 
pullets will lay more without contact with a 
rooster and their eggs should not be used 
for hatching purposes anyway. 

A rooster eats considerable food and may 
be dispensed with unless hatching is antici- 
pated. If hatching is attempted the sitting 
hen should be given from 12 to 15 eggs, 
depending on her covering capacity and 
placed in a quiet darkened spot. She should 
not be annoyed by the rest of the flock. The 
yard or run for her little chicks should be 
fenced ofl^ from the older birds for protection 

64 



iov l^rofitoble Pouitri) '^to^inq 



to the chicks and to hinder the mother from 
forgetting her children through her contact 
with the other birds. 

It is not necessary to give dimensions, etc., 
for a coop. The main thing is to have 
shelter and be sure that the litter is dry and 
free from mold. For chick feed see the 
section devoted to that subject. The section 
"Feeding the Layers" can also be followed 
for the older birds. Commercial scratch 
feed and meat mash together with oyster 
shell and grit can be purchased from any 
poultry supply house. Do not overlook 
the green stuff however. The older chickens 
can be given garbage from the table. Do 
not make the mistake of taking "garbage" 
to mean all waste, however. Green stuff, 
meat scraps, bread crumbs, cooked potato 
leavings, etc., will be cleaned up, but avoid 
making a compost pile out of the chicken 
yard. Cleanliness is all important; and to 
keep the yard which is naturally small in 
correct condition it should also be spaded 
up from time to time to keep it from getting 
sour. 

Many times the mistake is made of assum- 
ing that any old shelter is good enough for 
chickens. It is, if you want lousy, inactive 
non-producers. One of the best backyard 
houses we have ever seen was built of hollow 
tile and had a cement floor. It was warm 
and rat proof, light and sanitary. In prin- 
ciple it was built just like the laying houses, 

6; 




fi 



f^Qnual of ChiekenA, 



page oo, but much smaller (about 9 tt. 
by 12 ft. outside dimensions). It was a 
success. As many as 17^^ dozen eggs from 
12 hens in one month (a winter month too) 
were laid. The hens were well cared for, 
of course, and their natures were respected. 
Any section of this book can be read with 
profit by the owner of a little family flock, 
and he can make them pay if he treats them 
as nature requires. 

Disease and Remedies 

Lice and Mites 

They are blood sucking parasites and they 
weaken chickens, not only hindering egg 
production, but rendering the afflicted bird 
subject to disease. 

Lice are rarely found if laying house is 
kept clean and dust box is available. When 
found they should be treated at once with 
lice powder. An efficient home-made powder 
consists of ^ lbs. Plaster Paris 
>2 pt. Carbolic Acid 
1J2 pts Gasoline 

Mix thoroughly and seal in glass jars to 
retain strength. A baking powder can with 
holes punched in top makes an excellent duster. 

Always treat birds at night. Grasp feet 
and dust powder thoroughly into feathers. 
Lice powder will not kill lice eggs. A second 
treatment should be given birds within two 
weeks time to kill the young lice. 

Sodium fluorid may also be used. To get 
66 



for T>rQfitQblePoultai T^ii>inq 



best results every bird in a flock ought to be 
treated by rubbing the powder upward 
among the feathers with the ends of fingers. 
Roup 

Roup is the poultryman's worst enemy. 
It starts with catarrhal running eye and if 
prolonged the eye swells and pufl^s to many 
times its normal size. The closed eye will 
discharge a thick yellow, creamy substance with 
very off^ensive odor. It allowed to spread 
roup will wipe out the entire flock. Always 
watch birds at teeding time, and immediately 
separate any bird showing signs or acting 
drowsy from flock and place in sunny room 
for treatment. Many times the axe pays 
best. When used be sure to bury or Ijurn 
the birds afi^ected. 

Roup can be checked in its early stages by 
putting enough permanganate of potash into 
drinking water to color it dark pink. Head 
ot bird can also be immersed in a dark red mix- 
ture of same solution. This should be done 
three times a day and as many days as required. 




Example of Roup 

6- 



peff 



IHanual of'^ ChiekQn.^^ , 




White Diarrhoea 

One authority says, "This disease probably 
kills more chicks than all other diseases 
combined. Many noted scientists are work- 
ing upon a remedy for this fatal chicken 
disease, but up to date, to the best of our 
knowledge, no treatment has been found 
that is reliable. 

"The disease is caused by a germ, and germs 
generally are the result of filth, therefore 
try to eliminate the cause by having your 
hen coop and yards absolutely sanitary. 
Spray and disinfect often, three or four 
times a year. The bacillus or germ is found 
in the ovaries of the affected hen. From 
these infected ovaries, fertile eggs will hatch 
chicks infected with the deadly disease. 
Hence the difficultN' in eradicating the trouble." 



for T^rofitablePoullnj T^i^inq 



The best treatment is "swat or kill the 
chick or chickens." Otherwise use preven- 
tatives. See that new birds when purchased 
are free from the disease. Be a crank on 
cleanliness. Thoroughly disinfect incubators 
after each hatch, scrub them, spare no pains. 
Give chicks sour milk and for chickens of anv 
age avoid sour putrid ground. Move the 
\'ard from time to time and keep the ground 
turned over and loose. 

Crop Bound 

String, feathers and other foreign matter 
sometimes lodges at the lower end of the crop. 
In addition to a bulging of the crop, the bird 
becomes weak and emaciated from lack of 
nourishment. When first noticed, it is some- 
times possible to work the obstruction from 
the opening bv kneading the crop with the 
fingers. In extreme cases give the bird a 
2;ood tablespoontul of castor oil, work the 
oil down to the opening by kneading, and if 
necessary empty out the crop by holding the 
bird head down. The particles will work 
out through the mouth. On account of 
irritation, the bird should be sparingly fed for 
a couple of days. As soon as irritation has 
passed away, give her some sharp grit. It 
will reestablish the functions of the crop 
when new coarse food is again devoured. 
Miscellaneous 

There are other diseases, of course, to 
which chickens are subject: worms, chicken 
pox, diphtheria, canker, indigestion, etc. The 
69 



j^# 



^ : i. ^^ ■.,,,.' .!.,.riA 



ones we have described are perhaps most 
common and give the poultryman the great- 
est annoyance. It is usually safe to use the 
axe if anything develops that you do not 
understand. It may seem unprofitable, but 
it is more profitable than the general spread 
of disease throughout the flock. Cleanliness 
and common sense do wonders in preventing 
disease. We can not emphasize cleanliness 
too strongly or under too many headings in 
this book. 

Miscellaneous Points, 
Summarized 

It may be said that poultrymen can build 
and construct for themselves almost all 
equipment needed. Some poultrymen can, 
and some do at the expense of their flocks. 
Why expense you say? A man in the poultry 
game is the attending nurse. He might better 
hang around, just watching, than to be 
absent when the unforeseen occurs. He can 
not afford to divide his attention. Then, too, 
the element of uncertainty creeps in. He is 
experimenting with equipment, when as a 
rule, he will have his hands full experiment- 
ing with his flock. 

Little reasons why certain things are made 
in a certain way do not always crop out with- 
out experience. This book is not presented to 
you as a cure-all. The best teacher in the 
world can not make some scholars learn. 
Those who have the inclination backed by 



for T^rofitablePoultrn T^i^inq 



good judgment, however,can save themselves 
years of experiments by applying its contents. 

Do not get the impression that we, favor 
idleness, or that practical construction work 
cannot be done on the premises. We pur- 
posely specify how to build, etc., so that you 
may save money. Don't let your prime at- 
tention turn from your flocks, however. It 
pays much better to buy a great many acces- 
sories and through their purchase let the 
other fellow experiment than to waste your 
own time in the process. You will notice 
that for one thing we do not tell how to 
build an incubator. We do not recommend 
that you try it, that is why. It is hard 
enough to get a high per cent hatch from the 
best incubator built, and you can well believe, 
the builders had their troubles and anxious 
moments during their experimental stage. 
Spend your time as much as possible study- 
ing and perfecting your flock. It will pay 
you royally. 

Another point we feel justified in calling to 
your attention is the raising of feed (see page 
76). It is well as suggested to raise as much 
feed as possible. You ought to be able to 
save the middleman's profits. There again, 
you are in danger of divided interests. You are 
liable to spend too much time raising feed 
insteadof raisingchickens. If you are after big 
production in chickens, and you have land 
enough to raise the feed; hire a farmer, tell him 
what you must have and let him produce it. 

71 



fi<!4 



lllanual of'' ChiekerUb 



He must then make his end pay. Theoretically, 
you can pay the farm the market price for 
feed. It will cost you no more, and if the 
farm pays, vou will have a second profit. 

Records 

If you are in the business to make money, 
you must know where you make it and where 
you lose it. When vou know you can often- 
times see ways of remedying conditions. 
Statistics show that a large majority of 
failures in all lines of business are directly due 
to ignorance of facts. Facts point the way. 

Know what vour costs are per flock. Be 
able to compare one record with another and 
find out what caused any variation in results. 
Begin with the incubator and keep a record. 
Follow with the brooder, the colony house, 
the breeders, the layers. Know your feed 
costs, your stock purchases, your net sales, 
and best of all, what produced them. If 
disease cuts the ranks of one flock, you know 
it. How did it affect the producing qualities 
in eggs for instance!^ It's good business to 
know and simple records tell vou. 

Dont Crowd 

Some people get smothered, nauseated in a 
crowd. Some chicks do too. And the crowd 
don't have to be so very dense either. Give 
the chicks and chickens plenty of room at all 
times. Chicks under the hover must have 
room (see Brooding). When feeding older 
birds, do not make them crowd and fight for 



iov TProfitablePoultrif T^i^inq 



it. Put the feed in enough piles or spread it 
over enough area so they may feed com- 
fortably, giving the weaker ones a chance. 
Crowding weakens and weakness invites 
disease. Don't crowd. 

The Farm to Secure and Hints 
that Help You Buy It 

Where? Near a railroad or better yet near 
a market. Save express and freight charges, 
it possible, by locating where you can deliver 
and not ship. Just such savings as this make 
possible from $40 to 56o a week from 500 
hens. A near city farm means higher prices, 
too, and you get the benefit — not the com- 
mission merchant. By-products are easily 
converted into money, feed is easily obtained 
and personal contact with your trade is en- 
joyed. It must be very discouraging for a 
]nan to have the energy, ability and equip- 




^wt''^iitki< 



fletf 



hnanuQl of ChiekgnA 



ment to make money in the chicken business, 
and be handicapped by not being able to 
readily market his product. Too much em- 
phasis, therefore, cannot be laid upon the 
advantages of good location. 

Good roads and abundant water supply 
are points to be thoroughly considered before 
and not after the purchase or rental of 
property. In a cold climate where roads are 
snow bound, location means either the loss 
of time and money or a saving of what should 
be profits. A penny saved is worth about 
two earned in any business. 
Kind of Soil 

Sandy soil is not only best adapted to 
chickens but as a rule it can be purchased at a 
very reasonable price. Sand hills lacking 
the richness and strength to raise crops can 
be made to pay big when devoted to chickens. 
The constant scratching of the birds will 
turn over the sand easily, causing it to com- 
pletely absorb all manure and at the same 
time prevent the top soil from souring quickly. 
Rich, heavy soil becomes so saturated with 
fertilizer that constant dragging or harrow- 
ing is required. With the best of attention 
it will become sour, and many times turn a 
greenish color. Such soil is offensive in odor 
and breeds disease. It should be avoided if 
possible. 
Advantage oj Trees 

By planting fruit trees on the ground where 
chickens forage, necessary shade is provided, 
74 



for "Profitable Poultai T^i^inq 




and the ground made to pay an additional 
source of revenue. Trees bear especially well 
on fertilized sandy soil. The ground being 
light, favors the growth of fruit rather than 
wood on the trees. Surplus fertilizer thrown 
around the trees and thus converted into 
fruit is disposed of at a maximum profit. 

Using Manure 

There is always the danger ot spreading 
hen manure too thick. It is the richest and 
most valuable of manures, and should not only 
be spread thin but should be diluted or mixed 
with straw or some other similar agent. Piled 
in piles and allowed to stand causes hen 
manure to lose much of its value. I sed 
immediately or as soon as possible it spreads 
much farther, and is much more active in its 
effect as a fertilizer. While hen manure can 
be readily sold for |i.oo or more per barrel, it 
is worth much more than that to the man 
who raises feed for his chickens. By placing 



//^# 



nricmual of ChiekenA 



it back on the land, more and better teed is 
produced, proper strength is maintained in 
the land and the amount of teed purchased 
from outside sources is reduced. Make the 
land produce the eggs and chickens as tar 
as possible. The percentage of profit then 
increases by leaps and bounds. 

The correct use of manure requires much 
study and attention. Foo much is some- 

times worse than not enough. L^sed to its 
best advantage, manure is immensely valu- 
able and tigures largely in the amount ot 
money made from a chicken tarm. 

Raising of Feed 

Wheat, corn, oats, barley, buckwheat, 
suntlower seeds, mangel beets, cabbage, etc., 
can all be raised to excellent advantage on 
sandy loam soil. In tact most teeds con- 
sumed bv chickens can be profitably raised 
by the man in the chicken business. Raising 
of feed cuts out the agent's margin ot profit, 
and feed passes through the hands ot at least 
three agents before reaching the poultryman. 
The cost of producing on the land is infinitely 
less, therefore, than the cost of teed pur- 
chased on the open market. With grains 
that produce a by-product such as straw a 
double saving is effected. Not only do you 
cut out the purchase of straw but all waste 
becomes an asset the minute it is thrown 
back on the land. 

Before fruit trees have been set out or 
before thev have grown suf^ciently to be 
76 



for Profitable Po ultry ^ toinq 



of value for shade, corn can be planted near 
the chicken houses. After it is i ft. high 
the chickens may be allowed to run through 
it, obtaining bugs, fertilizing the corn, keep- 
ing it clean and enjoying the shade. 

An abundant supply of green stuff should 
always be available. A flock of 500 layers 
will consume about one acre ot clover or 
alfalfa through the summer season. Seeding 
for the clover must be done the preceding 
year. 

Facts and Figures 

Items of cost found under "Equipment" 
or "Expense," and the figures found under 
"Sources of Income," are based on a unit oi 
500 White Leghorn Hens. 

White Leghorns were chosen because in 
terms of eggs, and therefore net profits, they 
are one of the best commercial hens. NN ith 
birds of other breed the sources of income will 
vary possibly per item; for instance, heavier 
birds raised for meat will produce less eggs 
but increase the meat revenue. Such birds 
are many times advisable, especially in small 
flocks for family purposes where meat is in 
great demand. Again if the market avail- 
able to the owner of chickens pays fancy 
prices for meat, a very satisfactory income 
may be realized from meaty birds. 

According to manv big, successful leaders 
in poultry, however, eggs are the money 
maker, and a breed of birds must be chosen 
that produces eggs, big eggs and many oi 




rtnanual of ChickenA 



them. Not always do White Leghorns fill 
the bill. In Boston the demand is for brown 
eggs and fancy prices are paid for them. It 
would be folly for a man attempting to dis- 
pose of his products through the Boston 
market to raise White Leghorns. Granting 
that White Leghorns in general pay the best, 
a close study of market conditions must be 
made to ascertain whether the demand is for 
white or brown eggs, before poultry of one 
breed or another can be made to pay a sum 
approaching I48.85 a week from 500 hens. 

Yes 148.8^; a week net. In the sixth year 
of business, this profit is only reasonable. 
If you fail to make a proportionate profit, 
costs and selling prices considered, you fail 
to approach the standard of success estab- 
lished by those who do make this profit. You 
simply fail to be their business equal in the 
poultry industry. It may be a lack of appli- 
cation. It may be the spirit of self-reliance 
that leads you to disregard the methods of 




78 



for "Profitable PoultTM T^i^inq 



others. x'\gain, it may be the lack oi under- 
standing, or your inabiHty to sympathize 
with the natural element. Thelawsgoverning 
poultry can not be absolutely written in black 
and white. Taking these laws as a basis, and 
applying their principles with good judgment, 
makes the exceptionally poor year a very 
unlikely happenstance. 

The cost and selling prices given in the 
following tables are based on 191 8. They are 
the averages as we know them. They show 
where and how the money is made. It is not 
"easy money." The first and second years 
show little profit. If you go into the business 
determined to win and you are ready to 
"stand the gaff" of discouragement for two 
years, we assure you this, you will get your 
reward. 

From the third year on, each year looks 
brighter till, in the sixth year, enough money 
has been made from a unit of 500 hens to pay 
back the investment figured, to clear the 
title on all equipment and to pay living 
expenses and rent with a net profit of I48.85 a 
week besides. 



Mr. Reader, we do not say that you will 
make that sum, but that the man with ex- 
perience can under ordinary circumstances. 
Nothing but the unusual could prevent if you 
yourself are adapted to the job. After all we 
repeat one of the first pages in this book, 

it's up to you 

79 




f^Hm\ual of Chiekea^b 



important 

New beginners are not advised to start in 
with 500 hens, or with a hatch as big as we 
figure on in these tables. Nor do you need as 
much capital to invest. Start small and 
profit by your experience. The scale of 500 
is taken, and the stock and equipment neces- 
sary to produce that ^^oo, so that you may 
see correctly just what the future has in store 
if you make up your mind to go after it. 



iikl.^ I 



^ M 




80 



for T^rofitablgPouitai T^i^'mq 



THE FIRST YEAR 

(March to March) 



Property rented, 3 acres 

Capital needed, |i,70o 

For 500 hens (starting with hatching eggs in spring— no 
matured stock) 



EQUIPMENT 

Incubator, not more than $266.00 

3 Brooder Stoves 60.00 

3 Laying Houses [650.00 

3 Brooder Houses ) 



Spread over 5 yrs. 



Per Year 



5) 976.00 
t 195-20 



EXPENSE {One Year.) 

On equipment ? 195.20 

Rent (house and 3 acres) 

Tools, etc. 

Feed 

Hatching eggs 

Living 



360.00 
I 00 . 00 
1000.00 
336.00 
800 . 00 



2,801 .20 
Interest S^-S^ 

Total Expense . . . : $2,859.76 

Source of Income 



250 Chicks at .15 

250 Broilers at .75 

20,000 Eggs at .05 . 



Total income . 
Capital invested 



Assets . 
Total Expense 
Cash on hand . 



t 37 

187 

1,000 



1,225 
1,700 



2,925 
2,859 
6^.74 



No money made — investment outstanding — but one-fifth 

of equipment paid tor. 

81 




.ff 



flTlanuQl of Chieken^ 



SECOND YEAR 

EQUIPMENT 
Not paid for $780.80 

EXPEXSE 

On equipment $195.20 

Rent 360.00 

Tools 50.00 

Feed 1,375.00 

Living : 800.00 

Interest - 46.85 

Total Expense $2,827.05 

Source ok Income 

(Figuring an average of 150 eggs from each of 500 hens) 

— 75,000 eggs — 

5,000 retained for hatching 

5,000 allowed for consumption and breakage 

65,000 at .05 53,000.00 

5,000 at .14 . . 700,00 

500 Broilers at .75 375.00 

2,260 Chicks at .15 .Hg.oo 

250 Pullets at $1.50 375.00 

250 Hens at ?i.50 ... 375.00 

Total Income 35,164.00 

Total Expense 2,827.0s 

Net Earnings 52,336.95 

Interest on $1,700 for 2 yrs. at 6':, . . 5204.00 

Capital 1,700.00 1,904.00 

432.95 profit 

For one year and the (Original Investment paid otf. 

82 



fov T^rofitable Poultrij l^ iMnq 



THIRD YEAR 

EQUIPMENT 
Not paid for S585.60 

EXPENSE 

On eqiiipmcnr 5195.20 

Hent 360.00 

Tools, crc. i;o.oo 



Feed 



,375.00 



Living 800.00 

Interest on S585. 60 JS-I4 

Total Expense S2,8ic.34 

Source or Income 
Same as second year .... 55,164.00 
Expense 2,815.34 

Profit for year . .... 52,348.66 

52,348 . 66 

= 545.16 a week net profit. 

^2 weeks 

FOURTH YE.AR 

EQUIPMENT 
Not paid for . 5390.40 



On 



EXPENSE 

;quipment 5195.20 

Rent 360.00 

Tools, etc. " - 50.00 

Feed 1,375.00 

Living 800.00 



In 



terest on 5390.40 23.42 



Total Expense 52,803.62 

Source or Income 
Same as second year .... 55,164.00 
Expense 2,803.62 

Profit tor year ^2,360. 38 

2,360.38 

= 545.39 a Week net profit. 

^2 weeks 

«3 



j^# 



ITlanual of Chiekeni, 



FIFTH YEAR 



EQUIPMENT 
Not paid for ^195.20 

EXPENSE 

On equipment I195.20 

Rent 360.00 

Tools 50.00 

Feed 1,375.00 

Living 800.00 

Int. on ?l95.2o 11.71 

Total Elxpense 12,791.91 

Source o* Incomf. 

Same as for second year . . . ^5, 164. 00 
Expense 2,791.91 

Profit for year 1(2,372.09 

12,372.09 

= ^45.63 a week net profit. 

52 weeks 

SIXTH YEAR 

Equipment .^ll P.^id For 

EXPENSE 

Rent 360.00 

Tools and upkeep . . ^ 88.48 

Feed 1,375.00 

Living 800.00 

Total Expense ^2,623. 48 

Source of Income 

Same as for second year. . . . 5,164.00 
Expense 2,623.48 

Profit for yr 2,540.52 

$2,540.52 

= ?48.85 a week net profit after living 

52 weeks and rent have been piaid 

84 



for T'rQfitQbiePo uitni IMi^m 





Plymouth Rock Pullet 



85 



Definitions 



Breed — A race or variety, such as White Leghorn, 
Rhode Ishmd Red, Orpington, etc. 

CoLOKV House — A home tor voiing birds and broilers 
of one particular breed or strain 

Culling — Term used by poiiltrvmen in sorting and 
selecting 

Department House — Colon\or lavinu; houses grouped 
end to end 

Germ LESS Egg — Infertile or non-bearing 

Hopper — A container tor teed, mash, grit, etc. 

Hover — Usually applied in the poultry industry to a 
funnel-shaped suspended cover tor keeping warmth 
about baby chicks 

Inbreeding — The constant production of stock without 
the introduction ut new blood 

Mites — A form of" lice found at the end of the feather, 
closest to the skin 

MoLi — Natural shedding of feathers 

Mongrel — A bird of unknown or mixed breed or strain 

Pullet — A young hen 

Strain — Hereditary qualities and disposition: for 
example, egg-producing strain, meat strain, etc. 



Index 

Page 
Backyard Twelve 64, 65 

Barnyard Flock 61, 62, 63 

Beginners' Number of Chickens to Start With . 80 

Beginners' Starting Point 5i> 5- 

Breeding and Mating 59-^i 

Broilers: How to House Them (see Culling 

and Sorting) 35, ^(^ 

Broodiness 56 

Brooding and Number of Chicks Per House 22, 23, 72 

Brooder House Specifications and Description . 23, 24 

Brooder House Temperature -4? -5 

Building, Whether to Hire it Done or Do it 

Yourself 70, 71 

Chick Fountain, illustrated 28 

Chick Guard Around Brooder Stove ... 25 



Chick Yard or Run 



33 



Coal Burning Brooder Stove, illustrated . . 25 

Commercial Hen, The 11 

Construction of Incubator Cellar .... 19 

Cost and Profits (see Facts and Figures) . . 77-84 

Crop Bound 69 

Culling Layers 48 

Culling, Sorting and Selecting 47-5° 

Dead Germ at Seventh Day Testing, illustrated 16 

Definitions 86 

Diseases and Remedies 66-70 

Eggs in Winter 5^, '^3 

Equipment, Cost of 81-84 

Farm to Secure and Hints to Help Buy It . . 73, 77 

Feeding the Layers 45, 46 



Index- — Continued 



Page 

Feeding Baby Chicks ~^-33 

Second Day to End of Fifth Day ... 29 

Fifth Day to End of Second Week ... 30 

Second Week to End of Fourth Week . . 31 

Fourth Week to End of Eighth Week . . 31 

Eighth Week to Maturity 32 

When to Start Feeding Baby Chicks . . 21, 28 

Feed, Raising of 71,76,77 

FertiHzer, Use of 75, 76 

Formulas (see Feed) 

Germless Egg, illustrated 15 

Good Layers Physical Construction, illustrated 49 
Habits, such as Egg Eating, Feather Pulling, 

Etc 55, 56 

Hatching Eggs: 

How Selected 13 

Age of Hatching Eggs 14 

Temperature for Hatching Eggs .... 14 

Deformed or Speckled Egg, illustrated . . J i; 

Season for Hatching 17 

Number of Eggs to Hatch 17 

Time Required to Hatch 19 

Turning of Hatching Eggs, The .... 19 

When and How to Test 20 

Hover, The -5--7 

How to Transfer Chicks from Incubator to 

Brooder 21 

Inbreeding 60 

Incubation 17-21 



Index — Continued 

Page 

Incubator, Location of i8 

Incubator Temperature, Governing . . . . 20, 21 

Land to Secure and Hints to Help Buy It . . 73, 77 
Laying House for from Eighty to One Hundred 

Birds 37, 45 

House Specifications 37-44 

Corner and Front Views 3^, 39 

How to Build Roosts, Nests and Drop Board 41 

Nests, etc., illustrated 42 

Mash Hopper Construction 43 

Trap Door ... 44, 45 

Lice and Mites 66 

Litter for Chicks and Birds Matured . . . 34, 35 

Manure, Use of 75> 76 

Mash Hopper, Home-made, illustrated ... 32 

Meat, Eggs, or both 11, 12, 13 

Mites and Lice 66 

Molting 56 

Profits 77, 84 

Records .7a 

Roup 67 

Shipping Baby Chicks 21 

Soil, Kind of 74 

Strong, Healthy Germ, Seven Days Old, illus- 
trated 16 

Temperament of Producers or Good Layers and 

Non-Producers 50, 53, 54 

Trees, Advantage of 74, 75 

Water Supply 33, 34 

White Diarrhoea 68, 69 

White Leghorn as an Egg Producer, The . . 12 



Illustrations 

Page 

Coninicrcial Hen lO 

Speckled Kgg 15 

Infertile Egg 15 

Live Germ at Seventh Day Testing. ... 16 

Dead Germ at Seventh Day Testing ... 16 

Large Ineuhator 18 

Chick Box tor .Shipping 21 

Brooder Houses 23 

Interior Brooder House, showing coal Inirner 

stove, hover and guard 25 

Front View of Brocnler House 26 

Chick lu)untain 28 

Mash Hopper, Home-made 32 

Laying House, Corner View ^S 

Laying House, Front ^'iew 39 

Nests, Drop Board and Roosts in Laying 

House, cross section 41 

Laving House Interior, showing nests ... 42 

Mash Hopper in Laving House 43 

Laying House Trap Door 45 

Good Layer 46 

Pelvic Arch, Good Laver and Non-Producer . 49 

Wall Box for Overcoming Broodiness ... 57 

Prize Cockerel 58 

Rhode Island Red Meat Strain 61 

Roup, Example of 67 

Sick Chicks 68 

Plymouth Rock Pullet 85 



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